Sarnath, birthplace of Buddhism. Your complete travel guide.
Sarnath (earlier known as Isipatana) is the birthplace of Buddhism; it is about (10 km) 30 min drive from Varanasi, a city in Eastern Uttar Pradesh. The historical sites at Sarnath have been well maintained by Archeological Survey of India. This deer park where Gautam buddha gave his first sermon is in fact the 1st open Museum of India.
7 weeks after his enlightenment under the Bodhi tree in Bodh Gaya, Buddha gave his first sermon at Sarnath (to 5 disciples) at the deer park “revealing his Eightfold Path leading to nirvana”. It is here that he formed the Sangha (the community of the enlightened).
The Dhamek Stupa marks this place now.
Sarnath used to have 2 Stupa (part of the many Stupa built by Samrat Ashok as he spread the teachings of Buddhism). Both Stupa had some relics of Lord Buddha.
This stupa was built in 500 CE to replace an earlier structure commissioned by Samrat Ashoka in 249 BCE.
It is covered with beautifully chiseled floral carvings done during the Gupta dynasty. The wall is covered with exquisitely carved figures of humans and birds, as well as inscriptions in the Brāhmī script.
By the 3rd century, Sarnath had become an important centre for the arts, which reached its zenith during the Gupta period (4th to 6th centuries CE). In the 7th century by the time Xuanzang, a Buddhist monk and scholar visited Sarnath from China, he found 30 monasteries & 3000 monks living here.
While there were 2 stupa in Sarnath. One of them was alledgely destroyed in an attack ordered by Raja Chet Singh of Varansi. The base of that stupa can be seen today as well. It is alleged that he feared the speed at which people were accepting Buddhism as a religion and felt the threat for the dominant religion of the time. When the stupa was destroyed, the relics found in it were thrown in Ganges. The green colour box in which relics were preserved is now on display at a museum in Kolkata.
The panchayat.
This platform is known as the Panchayat. It is believed that Anand, one of Buddha’s disciple wanted women to be indicated in Sangha and had a “sort of” discussion with Buddha about this. Buddha sat him down for a discussion along with 4 other disciple at this place.
Thus, this place became the 1st Panchayat. Note the detailing of carving in the stone work. Indian Art & Culture were at its prime during the Gupta dynasty.
When people made a wish and their wishes were fulfilled, they built these Manoti Stupas. These were used by the Monks to meditate. The size, shape and height of the manoti stupa defined the seniority of the Monk who sat on it for meditation.
Later in the Gupta period, the statues (sitting and standing) were introduced, this is actually a turning point for architecture and civilisation. Some of these statues and here on display in the museum.
There are many more interesting places in this deer park, like the elevated platform where Buddha meditated (Mulagandhakuti) and a hospital for monks. I hope your guide will share all that information with you.
The Ashoka Pillar:
Mauryan emperor Ashoka had erected many pillars to spread the message of Buddhishm. These pillars with his emblem and edicts were constructed during his reign from 268 to 232 BC. He defined them as Dhaṃma thaṃbhā (Pillars of Dharma).
This pillar (at Sarnath) broke (probably during the turk invasion of Sarnath), in 5 parts, all of them have been kept for display in the open museum itself. You can see the inscription in Pali language on this pillar. The top, the Lion Capital is on display, walking distance away in the Museum.
The Museum: Lion Capital of Ashoka & more
The museum is rich with history and artifacts. Like most Indian museums, photography is not allowed. The main attraction at the museum is the Lion Capital of Ashoka, the national emblem of India.
It is unreal to see the actual thing!!
The Lion capital has four Asiatic Lions standing back to back. It also has a carving of a Lion, Elephant, Bull and a Horse on each side, seperated by spoked chariot-wheels. The base has a huge lotus (Lotus here represents the feet of Buddha).
The museum has many more interesting artefacts from the region including many statues of Buddha depicting various stages of his life. Give yourself enough time to explore the museum.
How to reach Sarnath:
Take a flight, bus or train to Varanasi. Preferably select a hotel in the Nadesar area of Varanasi. You can take a cab (Uber or Ola) or a pre-paid cab to take you to Sarnath. Almost all the “must see” places are within 10 min of walking distance of the Museum. The Uber ride should be about 30 minutes and cost about Rs 200/- (one way).
There are many “guides” at the open museum, they may quote price of Rs 500 to 1500 for a 1-hour guided tour. You could try and negotiate it to Rs 200 or 300 depending on number of members in your group. Suggest you take a government certified guide, his knowledge could be much better.
As the realisation hits that I am standing on the exact place where Buddha gave his 1st sermon and started a movement, I am hit by the gravity of history of this location. I can only say:
“Buddham Saranam Gachhami. Dhamam Saranam Gachhami. Sangam Saranam Gachhami”
About me:
My writing are based on my learning’s over 2 decades. Happy to exchange ideas and thoughts. I write mostly about subjects related to my work but sometimes just-like-that as well. I can be reached at @AdarshNigam on Twitter or Linkedin.
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